Amristar has been one of the top places to visit in India for many travellers. While the city is full of culture, good food, happy vibes, and colourful ‘phulkari’, the glory of Golden Temple attracts many travellers and devotees each year. Two such voyagers visited the gurudwara and shared their experiences of the city. Let’s dive in and experience Amritsar from their perspective.
‘ Amritsar: Golden Memories’ by Neha Dewan
Amritsar had intrigued the author for a long time, sparking a desire to explore a city renowned for its historical landmarks and vibrant, welcoming atmosphere. The city's name itself, "Amritsar," translates to the "holy pool of nectar," reflecting its significance as a tourist hotspot and a vital Sikh pilgrimage destination, attracting both domestic and international travellers year after year.
The journey began with an early morning train ride from Delhi, lasting approximately 5.5 hours. Fortunately, the city's compact size made it convenient to navigate once they arrived. After a brief rest at their hotel, the decision was made to head directly to the famed "Change of Guard" ceremony at the Wagah border, situated about 30 kilometres from Amritsar. As they approached Wagah, a palpable sense of patriotism hung in the air. The stands were filled with curious spectators proudly shouting slogans, creating an atmosphere of nationalistic pride. The half-hour ceremony, featuring military officers from both sides marching and hoisting their respective national flags, was nothing short of grand.
Impressed by their initial stop, Neha proceeded to their next destination, the iconic Harminder Sahib, better known as The Golden Temple. Particularly at night, the temple exuded a captivating allure. Its reflection in the sarovar, the melodious recitation of prayers and kirtans, and its magnificent architecture left no doubt as to why it ranks among the most frequented shrines. The Gurdwara, adorned with white marble coated in gold leaf, showcased exceptional beauty. Every corner of the temple told a heroic tale of Sikh religion and culture. Notably, the temple's entrances remained open on all four sides, symbolizing its embrace of people from all faiths, backgrounds, and ethnicities.
The community kitchen, known as Langar, provides daily meals to temple visitors, while volunteers can be seen tending to various tasks at the Gurdwara, signifying their respect. A sense of harmony and reverence washed over the author during their two-hour visit to The Golden Temple, a longstanding desire finally fulfilled. Adjacent to the Gurdwara, the Jallianwala Bagh memorial site stands as a stark reminder of the British-led atrocities committed under the Rowlatt Act.
In close proximity, a Martyrs' Well serves as a somber testament, into which desperate individuals leapt to escape a hail of bullets. Bullet holes pockmark the walls, vividly narrating the tragic events that unfolded that fateful day. Each corner of the place seemed to transport visitors back in time, reliving the tragedy.
As the day drew to a close, indelible memories were etched in the author's mind. It is said that a visit to Amritsar remains incomplete without savouring local dhaba cuisine. Neha’s group made a stop at one of the city's renowned dhabas, where they were treated to delectable paranthas, providing a taste of Amritsari food and hospitality. The brief visit left a lasting impact, imparting profound lessons from the Sikh faith, and emphasizing the universal values of benevolence and acceptance. The "Amritsari experience" was destined to be cherished for years to come.
‘Sikh Wisdom’ by Miroslav Volf
Miroslav Volf was a Century editor in 2009 and also taught at Yale Divinity School. Let’s look at his account of the city of Amritsar and Golden Temple.
One of the world's most famous religious structures is the Golden Temple, located in Amritsar, India. It holds immense importance for Sikhs as their primary place of worship. The upper section of this elegant rectangular marble edifice is adorned with a layer of shimmering gold. The author had the opportunity to visit the temple in the early morning, just before the sun rose, casting a gentle artificial glow upon it. The temple stood majestically, resembling a colossal gilded rock, its reflection gently dancing on the water's surface of the nearby pool.
The author's visit to Amritsar was as a Christian consultant for a meeting convened by their friend Rabbi Alon Goshen-Gottstein, called the Elijah Board of World Religious Leaders. The purpose was to discuss various matters involving faith and spirituality, with esteemed guests like the Dalai Lama and the chief rabbi of Jerusalem in attendance. Each participant had prepared a position paper to guide the discussions, and these papers were exchanged and debated among representatives from diverse religious backgrounds. This exchange of ideas and perspectives proved to be a captivating exercise. The author acknowledged that their own paper, though presented as their unique viewpoint, had been enriched by the wisdom and insights of others from different faith traditions.
The author grew up in a predominantly Catholic and Orthodox community dominated by secular communists while adhering to a Protestant faith that valued holiness in a different way. Unlike the communists, the author's Protestant group believed holiness was not tied to specific times or places; rather, it resided in the eternal and omnipresent God. He didn't closely follow a liturgical calendar and held their worship services in a renovated house on an ordinary street where the author lived as a pastor's child. The author's experiences of God in this setting, marked by restless rebellion as well as sweet surrender, stood in stark contrast to the sacred architecture of the Golden Temple.
The author walked barefoot in the gurudwara and covered his head while observing people performing ritual baths in the holy pool. He witnessed the devout followers quietly making their way to the temple, passing by the place where Sri Guru Granth Sahib Ji, the holy book, was kept—this book being the source of sanctity for the temple. Despite his appreciation, the author didn't feel a strong spiritual connection; he felt that he remained an outsider, observing and learning but not actively participating.
During his visit to the temple, Miroslav was deeply moved by an unforgettable lesson in religious wisdom, one that he valued even more than any precious golden artefact within the temple. The following day, as he strolled through the temple complex, he desired to purchase a souvenir for his two sons. However, he was surprised to find no vendors or shops within the temple premises. Despite the multitude of religious tourists visiting daily, there seemed to be no place to buy souvenirs on the sacred grounds.
To fulfil his tourist appetite, Miroslav had to leave the temple complex and venture into the worldly streets nearby. There, he found peddlers bustling with activity. Eventually, he stumbled upon a small kirpan, a ceremonial sword worn by baptized Sikhs. However, he noted that within the sacred temple, the sole commercial transaction involved the purchase of a "ticket" to cross the bridge to the temple in the middle of the lake. This ticket, which took the form of a bowl of porridge, varied in size depending on the amount paid. Visitors could consume some, but they were expected to contribute at least a portion of it to large bowls that were later used to feed the less fortunate.
This experience at the Golden Temple highlighted a stark contrast with other religious sites the author had visited. In most places, profit-seeking individuals, often aided by business managers, sought to capitalize on the devotion of visitors. However, at the Golden Temple, devotion was channelled into the noble act of feeding the hungry. This experience reminded the author of the biblical story of Jesus' cleansing of the temple, where he drove out those engaged in buying and selling within the holy place. The Gospels depicted Jesus' death as a consequence of this act, as religious leaders plotted against him. Ultimately, the author left the Golden Temple with a profound lesson: places of worship should not be venues for commercial activity but rather spaces for charitable giving to the needy. Faith, too, should be freely given, not bought or sold. The wisdom of the Sikh tradition became a cherished treasure within the author's own faith.
Looking at Amritsar from history’s lens
In the Sikh tradition, Guru Ram Das, the fourth Sikh guru, is recognized for establishing the sacred city of Amritsar. Historical Sikh records suggest that Guru Amar Das chose the site and named it Guru Da Chakk. Guru Amar Das had instructed Ram Das to locate land for a new town and create a man-made pool at its heart. Following Guru Ram Das ji's coronation in 1574, despite facing opposition from Guru Amar Das's sons, he founded the town, which was subsequently named "Ramdaspur" in his honour.
Guru Ram Das Ji first constructed the pool and established his official Guru centre and residence adjacent to it. He invited merchants and artisans from various parts of India to settle in the new town. Over time, with financial contributions and voluntary efforts, the town expanded and evolved into the city of Amritsar. Amar Das's son later installed the Sikh scripture inside the new temple at the gurdwara Harmandir Sahib in 1604.
Amritsar, historically referred to as Rāmdāspur and commonly known as Ambarsar, is the second-largest city in the Indian state of Punjab, following Ludhiana. Situated in the Majha region of Punjab, it serves as a significant cultural, transportation, and economic hub. Amritsar is renowned for the Golden Temple, one of the most spiritually important and frequently visited gurudwaras in Sikhism. The city also boasts a reputation for Amritsari cuisine and the manufacturing industry of wooden chessboards and chess pieces.
*Based on an article published by Neha Dewan in Economics Times on 9th February 2009, and Miroslav Volf in Christian Century on 18th May 2009